Wednesday, 30 September 2015

Indigo Pearl Resort #Phuket, built on the site on an old tin mine, combined history with luxury.


A beachside resort that will appeal to anyone interested in Phuket's past, the luxurious Indigo Pearl plays on the days when the southern island was frequented not as a place to relax but for mining tin. A major source of revenue from the sixteenth century right up until the mid-1900s, tin mining eventually gave way to tourism and while the tin culture has now gone for good, its legacy remains at Indigo Pearl resort.


 The resort is located on Naiyang Beach - a short ride north from Phuket International Airport. The resort was revamped from the popular Pearl Village Hotel by renowned architect Bill Bensley, founder and owner of Bensley Design Studio, who made the most of the site's tin mining heritage before signing off with a luxury statement.

"We wanted the overall feeling to reflect Phuket's heritage as a former tin mining centre while offering a distinctive atmosphere that will intrigue urbane travellers," says Wichit Na-Ranong, owner of the property.


 A member of Design Hotels, the resort has been drawing guests with its distinctive character since opening. For me, though, the attraction was of a more edible nature. Dutch chef Richard van Oostenbrugge was the most recent guest to grace the resort's kitchens and he gave me an excellent excuse for a short sejour.

Van Oostenbrugge is the executive chef at the Michelin two-star Bord'Eau in the De L'Europe hotel, Amsterdam. The master chef's visit was part of the "Rolling Visits by Rocking Chefs" programme that spices up the gourmet food scene at Indigo Pearl and he was offering a six-course gourmet at the resort's flagship Rivet restaurant.


 "Indigo Pearl has a reputation for its unique design and luxurious hospitality," notes Christopher Oakes, the resort's general manager.

"A visit by a master chef complements both the resort and our gastronomic scene. We don't want guests to check into Indigo Pearl just to sleep - but enjoy a fine dining and hedonistic retreat."

The resort itself is stylish with the industrial-chic design evoking the former mining industry but boasting plenty of contemporary details. Its concept has a close link with the Na-Ranong Family whose predecessors were all in the tin mining industry.


 The room is spacious, tucked away at the far side of resort. Bensley worked closely artist John Underwood, a native Australian and Phuket resident in creating the unique furnishings and art pieces seen around the room.

The bathroom boasts plain yet stylish concrete walls mixed with rustic wood poles and a modern rain showerhead in the spacious shower area. A huge outdoor bathtub is available in the "back yard".

Naiyang Beach is walking distance from my room. The sea is high when I check it out, and the beach itself less attractive than the dining table at the Rivet restaurant. 


 The Dutch master chef served his signature dishes including North Sea crab with smoked avocado and glazed beignet, Dover sole with duck liver, Shellfish veloute and duxelles, Red mullet and jus a Becasse and Anjou pigeon with mustard miso. We finish with a balloon of Guanaja chocolate coffee and praline. Beautiful.

Indigo also serves Thai food at the Black Ginger restaurant. We go there on our other night for something that's hot and spicy. The restaurant stands in the middle lagoon, and you need a boat to get there. The traditional Thai house is well made and decorated in black. The light is dim and dark and like all traditional Thai houses feels a little spooky. I find Black Ginger attractive in a gothic way. The Thai chef serves a large selection of contemporary Thai food - varying from miang (a chewy and nutty Thai snack) to famous the tomyam spicy soup. 


 "You better check out the wash rooms," says my friend, after a trip to Black Ginger's facilities. I do and I'm amused by two posters telling the difference between "Gentleman" and Lady" rooms. I won't reveal the secret here but it's worth going out of your way to see it. Indeed, the restroom is a destination in itself, revealing a sense of humour as much as artistic appeal.


Indigo Pearl also serves breakfast at Tin Mine restaurant - a sort of all-day-dining al fresco pavilion surrounded by ponds. The menu has Thai street-style dishes - southern-style coconut curry, wagyu Thai beef salad, grilled king prawns and chocolate fondant. I order phad kraphrao ta-le (pan-fried squid with basil and chilli) with an egg sunny side up on top and immediately wished I hadn't as it is swimming in oyster sauce. Someone should remove the oyster sauce from the supermarket shelves. Seriously. This good, old-fashioned garlicky and spicy dish has been hard to find since the invention of a dark brown condiment made from sugar, salt, water thickened with cornstarch and little oyster essence.

Indigo Pearl, on the bottom line, is a stylish resort that makes a bold statement in design and space. Travellers who revel in industrial chic will love it.


High points: A resort with character that's located beyond the bustling crowds of tourists in Patong. The resort is nestled along the local Naiyang beach and boasts a community path sweeping through a pine plantation. Beach runners will love it.

Low points: Your diet is limited to the resort's outlets and restaurants - which are expensive. 

*****
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Monday, 28 September 2015

The century-old residence of the Thai ambassador to Myanmar is a Tudor-style


The colonial-style residence of the Thai ambassador to Myanmar is recognized by the Association of Siamese Architects with a Historical and Architectural Conservation Award.


 IT'S HARD to visit Yangon without succumbing to the allure of the city's majestic colonial-era buildings. A team of Thai architects visited Yangon last year on a mission to search for the remains of Ayutthaya's King Uthumbhorn in Myanmar, and returned to Thailand not with a Siamese artefact, but a Tudor inspiration.

Of all the beautiful colonial-style buildings they came across in Yangon, the one they admired the most was the residence of the Thai ambassador, describing it as the epitome of architectural conservation.

On their return, these same architects nominated the Thai residence to the Association of Siamese Architects for the prestigious Historical and Architectural Conservation Award. And in May, the association officially announced the residence as the winner.

The awards presentation was held recently and presided over by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, with Norachit Sinhaseni, Permanent Secretary for Foreign Affairs, receiving the award on the behalf of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.


 It was the first time the association had recognised a heritage building outside of Thailand and marked a turning point in the history of the conservation award, says Dr Vasu Poshyanandana, one of the vice-presidents of the ASA and a member of the judging committee.

He says the ASA picked the building for the award because of its architectural and historical value.

"Members of the judging panel were actually in Yangon on a completely different mission. While there, they were invited for dinner at the residence and discovered the beauty of the place. They found the building was quite old and well taken care of. On their return, they nominated the building to the association," Dr Vasu says.

The Tudor-style building that was to become the Thai ambassador's residence was originally owned by EM De Souza, a Portuguese-English businessman who purchased this house in 1902. Souza was a renowned importer of medicine during the colonial period where he operated a pharmacy at the De Souza building on Mahabanddoola Road just west of the Sule Pagoda.

The Thai government purchased this property as the residence of the Thai ambassador in 1948 when diplomatic relations between Myanmar and Thailand were established.


 Ambassador Pisanu Suvanajata was delighted with the award, saying the embassy took great pride and honour in the recognition of the stewardship of all former ambassadors and their families, as well as embassy officials, in the conservation of this national and cultural heritage.

The Thai residence not only serves as the property of the Royal Thai government, but it has also hosted many stately events, most importantly the royal banquet hosted by Their Majesties King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit for U Win Maung, the then President of Burma, in March 1960 during the royal couple's first and only state visit to Myanmar.

This residence had also hosted great number of VVIPs, leaders, statesmen, and various historic events throughout the modern history of Thai-Myanmar diplomatic relations.

Dr Vasu says he is sure that the residence invokes a certain nostalgia for life under British rule.

"Not all old buildings have value. But the century-old Thai residence has high architectural and historical value. There are many buildings like this in Yangon that were built when the country was still under British rule. The style is British colonial, but there are no Myanmar elements in the style at all. The residence is a half-timber building that was adjusted in terms of styling to suit the country's climate.

"When I see it, it brings back memories of a certain period when this form of architecture was flourishing. To me this building is a romantic representation of the glorious past. It makes me think of life, people and events during the colonial period, the way they lived their lives," he says.

Old buildings like the Thai residence need conservation in the face of rampant urban development in both Thailand and its neighbouring countries. 


 Quite a few of Myanmar's heritage buildings in Yangon are particularly at risk of demolition as a result of modern development projects. But Dr Vasu is glad that the Myanmar government and private conservation projects have been able to protect many colonial buildings through "adaptive use" approaches.

"Unlike Thailand, Myanmar has far more colonial buildings that still stand to this day. They were built by the government. In our country, many colonial-style buildings were built by the elite. Just look at the palaces," he says.

He laments the fact that conservation is a foreign concept to the Thais but hopes that this award will help inspire more conservation efforts.

"Conservation is not part of our nature and culture. It's an idea imported from the West. To some people, conservation is about demolishing an old building and replacing it with a new one. In the past, we demolished and rebuilt religious structures, but then most of our monks were blue-blooded aristocrats who had architectural knowledge and taste.

"That's why buildings that were constructed during the Fifth Reign still look amazing. But these days anyone can join the monkhood and they may have neither knowledge nor taste. That's why some monks see historic buildings as old and unwanted," he says, referring to a controversy involving the abbot of Wat Kalayanamitr who replaced a century-old building in the temple grounds with a new and ugly one.

He also laments that some of the notable buildings awarded by the ASA such as the Supreme Court building near Sanam Luang have been torn down.

"With the Thai residence winning the conservation award, the ASA might need to reset the award's criteria to make it more accommodating to overseas nominations. That way other Thai embassies can nominate some of their majestic old buildings," he says.

Source: The Nation

*****




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Saturday, 26 September 2015

The new Manathai resort in Khao Lak, #Thailand


If Phuket's busy beaches can be compared to upbeat music fit for a good cardio workout, then the newly launched Manathai Khao Lak is surely the equivalent of new age sounds designed for yoga practice and sleep. A 90-minute drive north from Phuket, the resort is located on Bang Sak beach, a slice of unspoiled tropical beauty dipping down to the Andaman Sea.


 Manathai Khao Lak is the latest addition to the independent Thai hospitality group Manathai Hotels & Resorts. It boasts 158 spacious rooms, the smallest a generous 48sqm in size. Facilities includes a swimming pool, a fitness centre, a 24-hour reception and concierge service, complimentary Wi-Fi, room service, luggage storage, in-room dining, a childcare service, and an activities and tour service. 


 The porters seem confused by our arrival but nonetheless rush forward to deal with the group's more than 10 pieces of luggage and their friendly smiles give us confidence that the cases will indeed find their way to the right rooms.


 The towering open-air lobby is a beautiful space from which to admire the sea and the tropical greenery and the proffered cold welcome drinks and iced towels are gratefully accepted on this hot and humid afternoon.

While waiting for our rooms to be ready, we decide to have a late lunch at Colours, the hotel's all-day dining restaurant. The sun is right overhead so we opt for the air-conditioned area instead of the terrace, which we will no doubt check out the next morning when we breakfast al fresco. Colours' menu offers both international and Thai dishes and while the choice is not large, it is adequate for our needs. 


 The room has with LCD TV with cable channels, coffee maker, refrigerator and a safety deposit box. The bathroom is well equipped too with a shower, bathrobes, hair dryer and slippers. Additional amenities include complimentary toiletries and blackout curtains.

Dark wood against white walls and careful placement of Thai artefacts accentuate the peaceful ambience. Thai textiles and soft light from the rattan birdcage lamps make the room elegant but cosy.

I almost fall off the bed when a lady steps on my terrace and reaches to open the glass door. As she sees me, she looks embarrassed and confused and after she's walked away, I go out on the terrace and look around. Her mistake could happen to anyone. All the rooms look the same from the garden and there is no room number.


 n the late afternoon with the sun beating a retreat, I head out of air-conditioned comfort to check out the pool and the beach. Surrounded by serene landscaped gardens, the pool is a fine place to take a leisurely dip when the waves are too rough or to splash around with the kids. The adjacent Pool Bar offers light bites and refreshing drinks throughout the day and Pad Thai, the resort's poolside restaurant, celebrates one of Thailand's most iconic and best-loved dishes.

The warm grains of sand massage my feet as I stroll along the beach. Children are building sandcastles while their mothers sip fresh juice and concentrate on their tans. It is a place to forget about your hectic city life and enjoy the best the sun and the sea have to offer.

Heading back to the hotel's beachfront, I sink into a hammock with my favourite e-book. With the cool sea breeze, the rhythmic sound of the waves rushing to the shore, the swaying coconut palms plus a cocktail in my hand, I take a deep breath and enjoy every lazy second as I wait for the sun to set. 


****
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